Lembeh Resort, Sulawesi, Indonesia: Undercurrent 01/2025

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Dear Fellow Diver,

I had just read Anna and Ned DeLoach's fascinating article on the unique behavior of a blue ring octopus in Alert Diver. Still, even their lively descriptions paled as I watched a thumb-sized blue ring creep across the bottom, flare, and hunt. As the sly little creature found its prey, its vivid blue rings lit up. Moving over a bit of debris, it gracefully extended its arms wide, curling and uncurling the tips as it probed for its next snack. Next to it, a robust host pipefish floated like a dead leaf.

A North Sulawesi sunset This is why this past October, my partner and I returned to Lembeh, one of the world's unique dive destinations, where one doesn't go in search of great schools of fish, or mantas, or sharks, but rather, for unique animals hidden in coral heads, scattered trash, and tin cans! It's a fish-and-critter-geek's treasure hunt for connoisseurs of the rare. In 25 dives over eight days, I never lost my thrill of the hunt.

And it's worth the trek to Indonesia, a nation with more than 17,000 islands. My partner and I flew 90 minutes on Lion Air from Bali to Makassar on South Sulawesi Island, then to Manado on North Sulawesi, 600 miles away. Getting there was not half the fun. Lion Air's densified 737S was crammed with 213 seats; being taller than average, I hobbled off the flights, knees screaming. I perked up when I spotted the Lembeh Resort staff, who shepherded us by van and then by boat to the resort.

The lovely resort has 20 rooms and can handle 40 guests, but with many solo travelers, it usually serves around 30. I heard German, Russian, French, Aussie, British, and American English, with English as the lingua franca. From Room 3B, we had a splendid view of the strait, with beautiful volcanic peaks framing the sunset. Five years ago, we enjoyed the cliffside villa, with its infinity pool and large living area. But our knees can no longer take the 164 irregular steps up and down, so we chose fewer steps and less luxury. Our room was just fine - a large living area with a sofa and a nice bedroom - but I missed the double sinks and huge outdoor shower. Tiny violin playing sad song ......

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