Returning from a 10-day liveaboard
trip in the Red Sea, filled
with happy thoughts of my
underwater photos and perhaps an afternoon tour in Cairo
before departing for the U.S. the
next day, I hurried to catch my
flight at Sharm el Sheikh. The airport was busy, full of tourists
and divers. As I passed through
security to enter the airport
building, the Tourist Police met
me and my film at the end of the
X-ray belt and escorted me to
their airport office.
The police were quite upset
that I had exposed 26 rolls of
film. I was a little upset myself --
26 rolls was not enough for a
good 10-day trip. The police,
however, thought 4 to 5 rolls was
an appropriate amount.
They questioned me for three
hours about the film, who was
traveling with me, what agency
was handling my travel, my trip,
my occupation, the boat. Then
they loaded all my luggage onto
a cart and wheeled it out the
door. They motioned for me to
follow and asked if I had money
for a taxi. We drove to a small
Tourist Police office in Naama
Bay. I began to worry.
They questioned me for two
more hours. They wrote a
report -- page after page, all
hand written, corrected, rewritten.
They questioned me again. I tried to explain that most people
who take photos under water
shoot an entire roll on one dive,
and I had been diving four times
a day for 10 days. They weren't
buying it.
After signing a report
written in Arabic, not knowing
whether it was what I had told
the police or a murder confession,
I was loaded into the taxi
(again, my treat) and taken to a
larger, stifling-hot police complex
near the marina, where I
was questioned some more. I was
told that my film would be sent
to Cairo, where one roll would
be processed, and if it was okay
(whatever that meant!) I could
take it all home. For five hours I
was intermittently questioned.
We took a taxi to another office,
and we came back again.
Late in the evening I began
to contemplate jumping out the
open window to call for help.
Before I could act on this
impulse, I was taken to another
office, where I was asked again
to explain about underwater
photography.
Durning that day's entire 12
hours of questioning, I was
offered only one cup of tea,
nothing to eat, and no restroom
facilities. Finally I was handed
my passport and told I could
leave. My film had been sent to
Cairo. I was to go to the Tourist
Office at 5 Adly Street to collect
it. The film would all be processed
(which thrilled me, as a
great deal of it would require
PUSH processing). It was now
almost 11 p.m., and I had missed
all the flights to Cairo. Take the
overnight bus, they suggested.
Finally I arrived in Cairo,
desperate to take the next flight
home. But they were not done
with me yet. Over the next
several days, a pattern developed:
show up at the police station at the designated time,
be told to come back later, then
be told to come back the following
day.
On the fourth day of this
ordeal, a report -- all in Arabic,
of course -- was finished, and I
was loaded into a taxi with my
film (guess who paid) and taken
to the Ministry of Tourism. An
assistant to the minister met me
and asked me to write two notes,
one to say where the film was
shot and the content of the
photos, the other stating that I
had received the film taken from
me by the police. The assistant
suggested I return for a Red Sea
photo competition. For a final
insult, the deputy assigned to
escort me for the final two hours
demanded money for his help.
He was not at all happy when I
refused to pay him.
I was leaving Egypt five days
behind schedule and about $600
poorer than I expected. But first
I had to pass through the Cairo
airport.
Going through airport
security, I carried my film in a
clear bag so that it could plainly
been seen and recognized. I
held my breath.
No problem.
Deborah Fugitt