Dive Review of Tuamotu Pongee, Y AKA Plongee, O2, Enata/see story in
French Polynesia/Tuamotu Archipelago

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Tuamotu Pongee, Y AKA Plongee, O2, Enata/see story: "Tuamotu Archipelago, French Polynesia", Jul, 2019, by Marie L York, FL, US ( 1 report with 11 Helpful votes). Report 10993 has 11 Helpful votes.
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Ratings and Overall Comments 1 (worst) - 5 (best):
Accommodations		Food
Service and Attitude		Environmental Sensitivity
Dive Operation		Shore Diving	N/A
Snorkeling	N/A
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Comments	Tuamotu Archipelago, French Polynesia Last night I dreamed of sharks. It was a river of sharks parading through a deep pass - the sole fissure through a circle of fossilized coral and sand. It was an interstate highway of sharks—different models in separate lanes traversing at various speeds. There were the white tips, the black tips, the larger black fins, and the occasional fearsome tiger for which the others would change lanes to avoid. The dream continued with sharks coming to investigate our foursome, tucked under a ledge at 95 feet. I was conscious only of the display of silvery flashes and inquisitive eyes checking us out in our cavern. Time was irrelevant—that’s how dreams are. It might have been the red deco flashes on my computer that woke me—this was real. I was diving the pass at the south end of Fakarava in the Tuamotu Archipelago of French Polynesia. Our unfazed French dive master brought us up to a reasonable depth for long safety stops where we gazed at multitudes of grouper, spaced about every two feet, waiting for the lunar cycle to trigger their instincts to spawn and perform their balletic dance of procreation. This was the best diving of my life. Since I’d planned this adventure based upon Undercurrent’s digital platform and mini chapbook, I figure I owe the magazine and all those writers before me, hence this story. At first, all I knew was that I was going to Tahiti, for friends and I had booked a bareboat sailing charter for mid-June. There has to be good diving there as well, I think, so the research began. It took many months to figure out where to dive, how to get there, where to stay and with whom to dive. The destinations slowly began to take shape, but the classic, “You cannot get there from here.” came into play. Well, except on Thursdays. I write this to share our experience, and primarily, how to do it. Our itinerary became: USA to Tahiti, which is part of the Society Island chain. Stay a couple of days to recover, fly to another chain of islands—the Tuamotu Archipelago. These atolls are quite different from the Society Islands, for the Tuamotus have no land center—their volcanic mountains having sunk and dissipated into a vast watery lagoon eons ago. All that remains is a narrow ring of coral and sand, with a major pass between the lagoon on the inside and the Pacific Ocean on the outside. The Logistics The sequence of planning your trip should be: (1) Document your dive certification credentials and experience along with passport info. I list this task first as we needed to prove our seriousness when making dive reservations. A rescue diver certification (or above) is golden. This is French territory and they follow the French rules—a rescue diver is allowed to dive to 130 feet, lesser beings to 90. All divers dive according to the lowest cert level in the group. All divers must stay with the dive master and ascend together. Our group of four had enormous experience and although only one had rescue level, the rules relaxed as we proved ourselves, which is why we had booked with local smaller operators as they tend to be less rigid, their boats less crowded and their clients more experienced. For the few times someone was added to our group, we were reassured that the additional diver was rescue certified or beyond. (2) Decide which islands to dive and in what sequence. I suggest Tikehau, Rangiora, Fakarava north end and Fakarava south end, in that order, because the diving becomes more and more interesting in this pattern. There may be French Polynesian dive operators who can put a complete package together for you, but in the US, I found none that were interested in anything less than full packages at high-end resorts (bungalows over the water). Also, our lodging choices were too small for an agency to bother with. Nor were they interested in booking inter-island flights which is easy to understand as booking flights is tricky (read the fine print—twice) and with an inter-island pass, not that expensive so profit margins are slim. In fact, one agency rep told me that they’d only consider the inter-island bookings if we all booked our international airfare with them as well. Add the French language translation issue, their slow internet speeds and the time difference and you see the challenge. (3) Carefully scrutinize the ever changing schedules for Air Tahiti (the local inter island carrier, not to be confused with the international carrier, Air Tahiti Nui). Air Tahiti will determine your sequence because services to some islands are very limited, like, only on Thursday. With a C-card as proof, Air Tahiti will allow a diver an extra 11 pounds of checked luggage, for a total of 61, in one or two bags. (I checked two bags on a total of six local flights without a hitch. One bag was a small under-the-seat roller, the other large. In this way I had flexibility in re-arranging weight and bags for the international and US domestic flights with their different limits.) Air Tahiti limits a carry-on to 11 pounds, which they may weigh if it looks suspiciously large. Day packs or gym bags are good. (4) Select your lodging. Resorts (I use that term loosely) will pick you up at the airport (which means you have to reconfirm with them every time Air Tahiti changes its schedule). Rooms come with half board or full board in the more remote locale. They want to know you are serious about staying so sending a copy of everyone’s ticketed flight itinerary is very helpful. Tikehau Village just last year was approved by the banking system to use an electronic credit card reader on site (they still prefer cash). We could not pay by credit card in advance. We tried a wire transfer but US and French banking systems seemed incompatible and our deposit was rejected days later. So, the lodge operator canceled our reservations. I nearly cried. I implored the Tikehau dive operator we’d chosen to contact the lodge requesting that they allow us to keep the reservation in spite of not being able to make a deposit for three bungalows, which represented over 40% of their space. Everyone knows everyone—that worked. This was essential for based upon the reviews some accommodations were just too basic or horribly expensive and this was the only one that fit our budget and style, and was on the preferred side of the island. (5) Select your dive operators. Go local, go small. We always got nods of approval when a current operator asked us who we were diving with on the next atoll. From home, I wrote our dive operators at least three times each, to confirm and reconfirm, each time highlighting our experience and clarifying that they would indeed pick us up at the lodge we’d chosen. (If it’s on the other side of the island, they cannot get you. And, forget taxis.) Except for Y AKA Plongee in Rangiroa who offers a $5 discount if you bring your own gear, the diving prices are the same whether you use their gear or your own. We brought our own. The dive shops can accommodate yoke or din valve regulators. (I brought a DIN adaptor but never used it.) As a Florida diver who fears the cold, I wore a 3 mm wetsuit with a hooded vest and was very comfortable in the 82/83 F. degree water. Nitrox might have been available but we didn’t bother, and given the depths and the tendency to chase dolphins or manta rays, maybe it’s better not to have to worry about oxygen toxicity. (6) Follow the rule—lay out everything to pack, take half the clothes and twice the money. ATMs in the Tuamotus are non-existent. We each purchased $1000 worth of the XPF currency (aka as CFP) in advance from our home banks and saved the hassle of currency exchange and ATM limits upon arrival in Tahiti. The Fun Tikehau had the most abundant fish life and we were delighted to see Pacific fishes again. Lots of butterflies and unicorns.The schools were amazing although it was heartbreaking to see the bleached coral. Kudos to Sebastian and Tuamotu Plongee (dive operation). Our dives were long, once even to 70 minutes. The water was strikingly clear as there are few nutrients. Thus, there were no filter feeders, sea fans, whips, or sponges as found in the Caribbean. You want to dive the pass on the incoming tide. It is swift, it is glorious, it is not for beginners. You must do it. We stayed at the Tikehau Village in thatched cottages on the beach. The dining hall served the best and most creative dinners of our trip. Service was personable and responsive. Kayaks are free as are bicycles. There really is no “town.” We forgot to pre-order lunch one day and ate a rather primitive meal from last minute shopping at the only market, which closed at 2 PM. We watched men playing bocce ball in the dirt road and happy kids leaping off the pier. We stayed four nights, dove three days, one tank in the morning, a second tank after lunch. From Tikehau we flew to Rangiroa staying at Relais Josephine. This remarkable place is situated directly alongside the middle of the Tipatu pass, actually the deck extends over the edge. We saw sharks in the water at night and leaping dolphins during the day. Upon arrival, standing in awe, it was difficult imagining that we would be diving under that gorgeous blue surging water, but that’s exactly what we did. Our clean bungalows were lovely with full roofs, wood floors and four poster beds; the French management runs a tight ship and an excellent restaurant. There’s a well-stocked market just off site and good lunch restaurants within a bike ride (free bikes) near the pier. Y AKA Rangiroa was our very accommodating dive operator—the most efficient ever. We made repetitive two tank dives, six in three days. The pass was exhilarating. Upon surfacing the first day I gasped to the dive master “You actually get paid to do this?” He nodded. The second day Virginie became our guide. She was our dolphin whisperer as they seem to respond to her sounds and movements. I spun around to see four bottle-nosed 747-shaped machines heading straight for us, eye to eye. Swooshing upward at the last moment, one slowed to let me pet it from head to tail fin. Another small pod of 3 adults and a baby swam overhead, while dozens of white tips and grey reef sharks circled 30’ below us. I think I sucked that tank dry! The non-pass dives are very good but not as thrilling. When you book, write that you want the best dives and let them set the schedule according to the tides. After four nights and three days of diving in Rangiora, it was time to fly to Fakarava’s north end. It’s very interesting from the air to see the little strip of land with its runway, reef on one side, ocean on the other. Here we were met by the owner of Havaiki Lodge and pearl farm, where the staff was just joyous and happy to serve. In just our short time, we fell in love with the people and it’s easy to understand why the artist Gauguin kept returning to French Polynesia. The grounds were impeccable and the bungalows air conditioned. This place was more upscale, with more of a resort feel. When my friends commented on how much they liked it, I grew nervous because I knew where we were staying next (forget AC—no electricity). The father of the owner of Havaiki Lodge is a famed sculptor and his works grace the decks and gardens, adding to the beauty of the setting. The food was very good. The breakfast buffet plentiful and varied, even with hard boiled eggs. The whole place was very well managed. The gift shop offered for sale the farm’s Tahitian pearls, which come in about 30 gradations of color and rarity. The gracious staff helped with customized purchases. There are many factors that influence price of course, but later comparisons in Bora Bora and Tahiti proved that my friends had made very wise choices by buying at the source. Our super accommodating dive operator was O2. Marion and Thibault run a very fine operation. Although the boat carried three dive groups, we four were our own group plus dive master. We had extraordinary dives in the middle of schools of sharks and fat groupers waiting to spawn. It was the best dive ever (until the next one). There was the baby eagle ray with yet no tail and from 100’ above, with absolute clarity, we saw a humongous manta ray near the bottom. After three nights and four dives, we were delivered to the pier where a homemade wooden boat pulled up to take us to the south end of Fakarava. It was a 1 1/2 hour ride during which we saw nothing but a stream of palm tree lined spits of land as we ripped through indescribably beautiful blue waters. Finally, some sailboats at anchor came into view with wind surfers leaping 30’ in the air. Shortly, we pulled up to Raimiti, a place surely at the end of the world. The owner, Eric, doesn’t remember how long he has been there but knows that it took him 12 years to build the facility with its nine bungalows, dining hall, dive shop and resident lodging. One of our three bungalows was on the reef side facing the ocean with its tremendous views and where the wind blows, really blows. It had doors, wood floors and full walls to the roof and ensuite bathroom. The other bungalows were on the lagoon side—little breeze, no door, half walls with sloping thatch roofs over the sides, and a separate thatched bath house. We were instructed to light our two kerosene lanterns before we came to dinner so that we could later find our huts; sunset arrives at 5:30 in June in the southern hemisphere. The bungalows were very comfortable and although all rooms had mosquito netting, they went unused. The island boasted a bank of solar panels that lit pathways, heated water, ran fans and the common area charging station. The setting was lovely and structures were designed with an artistic eye. Raimiti’s pricing includes full board and diving with Enata on site. Everything—every dish, every bag of flour, every bottle of water is transported via small boat from the north end, which is supplied by barge from Tahiti, which is in the middle of the vast Pacific. Services are not cheap, but not outrageous either, considering the transport challenges. Raimiti made a special boat run to pick us up because we were traveling on a non-flight and thus non-boat transfer day. They agreed to make the extra run after we sent them our dive credentials, and the first night we four were the only guests. Their bookings and payments are run through an office in Paris and after making a deposit, you must later pay the balance in advance, preferably through your established banking and credit system before you leave home—experience is speaking here. South Fakarava diving was spectacular in this UNESCO world heritage site where the action in the pass is recorded by multiple cameras and beacons. There is a model of the underwater canyon and a real-time display located in a hut over the water—the perfect surface interval. One day the seas were rolling and boat re-entry a bit dicey; the next day was very calm and stunningly clear, as usual. This was our final dive where we rested on the bottom gazing at the magical underwater world, which is where I began this dream-filled story. Now at home, when I sleep I still see a beautiful river of sharks moving swiftly through my dreams. They are real, so is French Polynesia as one of the best dive destinations I’ve ever encountered. Our Undercover Diver’s Bio: Since her certification in 1977, the author has explored much of the underwater world (the warm parts, that is). Perhaps it was luck, timing, or persistence that elevated the French Polynesia experience above Papua New Guinea, Caymans, Galapagos, Caribbean, Micronesia, Mexico, New Zealand, Costa Rica, Truk, Honduras, Indonesia or Malaysia. Or perhaps it was the remoteness, the water clarity and the abundance of large critters. Or maybe it was the kindness and genuine heartfelt smiles of the people. Diver’s Compass: Airlines: American from Palm Beach, FL to Los Angeles; Air Tahiti Nui to Papeete. Air Tahiti for inter-island transfers in French Polynesia. On average, I estimate that cost for lodging, meals, transfers and diving in four locations cost about $5000 per person for two weeks. One can spend a lot more by staying at bungalows over the water that boast of a glass floor beneath the coffee table, or choosing an oceanfront bungalow over lagoon or gardens side. Our travelers included a couple who stayed in the higher-end bungalows but they shared the cost. The other two singles had a separate bungalow each, but on the cheaper side of the islands. We were very happy with our accommodations. They were very adequate, diverse and interesting.
Reporter and Travel
Dive Experience	Over 1000 dives
Where else diving	[Unspecified]Papua New Guinea, Caymans, Galapagos, Caribbean, Micronesia, Mexico, New Zealand, Costa Rica, Truk, Venezuela, Honduras, Indonesia, Malaysia.
Closest Airport	Papeete, Tahiti	Getting There
Dive Conditions
Weather	sunny	Seas	surge, currents
Water Temp	81-83°F / 27-28°C	Wetsuit Thickness	3
Water Visibility	-200 Ft/ -61 M
Dive Policy
Dive own profile	?
Enforced diving restrictions	[Unspecified]
Liveaboard?	no	Nitrox Available?
What I Saw
Sharks	Lots	Mantas	1 or 2
Dolphins	Schools	Whale Sharks	None
Turtles	None	Whales	None
Ratings 1(worst) - 5 (best):
Corals		Tropical Fish
Small Critters	N/A	Large Fish
Large Pelagics
Underwater Photography 1 (worst) - 5 (best):
Subject Matter	N/A	Boat Facilities	N/A
Overall rating for UWP's	N/A	Shore Facilities	N/A
UW Photo Comments	Evidently my article is too long. I'd like to submit it directly to you via email to see if you want to publish it. I think it is quite worthwhile.

Report currently has 11 Helpful votes

Subscriber's Comments

By peter bernstein in FL, US at Jul 25, 2019 07:38 EST

great report- did not have FP in my sights BUT now will- can't wait to get the rest of your wonderful report peter bernstein

By david whiteside in CA, US at Jul 28, 2019 16:11 EST

What a great report, can't wait to read it all. French Polynesia is now on my to do list.

By report author: Marie L York in FL, US at Jul 28, 2019 19:50 EST

If you send me your email address, I will send the whole article.

By david whiteside in CA, US at Jul 28, 2019 21:54 EST

dwhite95815@hotmail.com

By peter bernstein in FL, US at Aug 02, 2019 15:07 EST

pjbernstein@juno.com my email for the whole report thank you

By James Castanino in MD, US at Feb 18, 2020 11:05 EST

This is a great report, thank you. I am in the final stages of planning a trip to the very same destinations and this will be quite helpful.

By James Castanino in MD, US at Feb 18, 2020 11:06 EST

Also... am I to understand from the comments above that you have a longer report with more info available? Would love to see it if possible!

By report author: Marie L York in FL, US at Feb 18, 2020 17:39 EST

Nice to hear from you. No, the published report as seen above is the full one. I warn you, you might be really spoiled if you go. I feared that I'd just hang up my wetsuit forever...but....

By report author: Marie L York in FL, US at Feb 18, 2020 17:39 EST

Nice to hear from you. No, the published report as seen above is the full one. I warn you, you might be really spoiled if you go. I feared that I'd just hang up my wetsuit forever...but....

By James Castanino in MD, US at Feb 19, 2020 10:29 EST

Great, thanks again! Really looking forward to it. All the best.

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Dive Review of Tuamotu Pongee, Y AKA Plongee, O2, Enata/see story in French Polynesia/Tuamotu Archipelago

Tuamotu Pongee, Y AKA Plongee, O2, Enata/see story: "Tuamotu Archipelago, French Polynesia", Jul, 2019,

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Dive Review of Tuamotu Pongee, Y AKA Plongee, O2, Enata/see story in
French Polynesia/Tuamotu Archipelago