Though we divers like to dream of exotic places
in the South Pacific and the Indian Ocean, most of
us still find the Caribbean and the Western Pacific
our primary destination. And many find surprisingly
good diving.
For example, long-time Undercurrent subscriber Clem Clapp (Maplesfield, AL) wrote after a May
trip to the Blackbird Resort on Turneffe Atoll in Belize, "Our suite with hot tub on the water was roomy and comfortable, with plenty of hot water
and really nice bed ... On almost, if not every dive,
we encountered blacktip and nurse sharks, loggerhead
turtles, eagle and sting rays, eels and large
schools of fish. All dives were really nice and led by
Aldo and Ralphie (a fill-in from Hopkins), two of
the more competent dive leaders in my diving history.
They were very alert looking for critters and
always on the lookout for the many lionfish encountered,
many of which were taken or fed injured to
groupers or morays." www.blackbirdresort.com
Diving in the West Pacific can be very different
from the Caribbean, as Paul Fitzpatrick (San
Antonio, TX) discovered. Diving with Aquacenter Diving at the Flamingo Beach Resort in Playa Flamingo, Costa Rica, in May, he reported, "Like much of the Pacific coast of the Americas, there is
little coral, but the fish are much larger. The best
dives were great. We saw mantas on three of eight
dives, usually at the safety stop. There was a huge
school of lesser devil rays overhead on one dive
and a group of six white tip sharks on another.
Several times we were swimming in large schools of
the kind that are rarely seen in the Caribbean anymore
... There are a limited number of dive sites,
so we were repeating sites by dive number six or so.
Some were outstanding, with lots of wildlife, and
others were just dead. The dives were all close to
the islands (rocks really) so there was a lot of surge
even at 60 feet (18m). We mostly swam beside or
around an island. There was a substantial thermocline at 50 feet (15m), going from 84°F (28°C) to
73-75°F (22°C)" www.resortflamingobeach.com
Of course, Florida is the easiest place for most
Americans to reach, and as we've reported many
times, the better diving is along the coast north of
Miami where the Gulf Stream flows. Diving in the
Keys is much less predictable and sometimes not up
to snuff, as Samuel B. Johnson (Greensboro, NC)
notes about his April trip to the Florida Keys.
"The people were pleasant, and I enjoyed two
unremarkable dives with Key Dives, typical of Florida Keys diving. However, on each of my dives,
there was a serious safety concern. After the first
dive, when the captain called the roll to make sure
all divers were back on the boat, he skipped my
name and did not call it. Had I still been in the
water, no one would have known. When asked, the
captain admitted that it was not the case and that I
failed to hear; he had, in fact, skipped my name. It
didn't seem to bother him much!"
"On the second dive, I was one of a three-diver
group led by a divemaster. I stopped to take a photograph,
and when I looked up, the divemaster
and the rest of the group had disappeared. Luckily,
I'm a fairly experienced diver, so I got back to the
boat by myself, but it struck me that the divemaster
seemed rather unconcerned that one of her group
was missing. She returned with the rest to the boat
and made no comment when I showed up later.
Luckily the boat had not left without me."
Nor was it so good in San Pedro, Belize, with Amigos Del Mar. After an experience with them in June, Linda Teichman (Oakland, CA) was
prompted to report, "I was unhappy that my first
rental regulator tended to free flow; the second
stuck. Both dives I had to switch to the spare.
Thank goodness we were only on local dives, 10
minutes from the dock, so it was easy to switch out
the gear. All the gear looked quite tired and worn." www.amigosdivebelize.com
Beyond the Caribbean
Traveling far afield doesn't guarantee success
either. Dennis McCrea (Burien, WA) went all
the way to Fiji for a two-center visit including the Volivoli Resort in May. Sadly, Volivoli was destroyed by Typhoon Winston last year and is still rebuilding,
but as something it wasn't. "We met several people
who had been here in previous years, and they were
disappointed that it had lost its 'local charm ' They
commented, 'It is an amazing place to stay because
of the accommodations, but it feels too upscale for a
dive resort '" Dennis adds, "If you want a really nice
place to stay and go diving, this is one of the best
He calls it a 'Resort that offers Diving '"
That said, "The coral in the 'Bligh Waters' surrounding
the resort took a harder hit than Rainbow
Reef in Taveuni. Shore diving is a waste unless you
just want to get wet." Also, he advises "bring plenty
of DEET for the sand fleas/no-see-ums, and bring
Benadryl tablets and lotion, as there is none for sale
in Fiji," which holds true for many tropical destinations,
even in the Caribbean. www.volivoli.com
Big Animal Encounters
By their very nature, wildlife encounters cannot
be guaranteed. The ocean is not a zoo.
Gregg Backmeyer (Atlantis, FL) found this when
he booked on an Amos Nachoum Big Animals
Expedition in Dominica in April and was very disappointed.
He wrote, "We had no sperm whales for the first
four days. We did have false killer whales day one.,
pilot whales day two, and sporadic pods of dolphins,
but none were bold enough to swim with us. At
10:30 a.m. on day five, we spotted sperm whales --
finally. Something had evidently spooked them out
of the area, and upon their return, they were very
shy. We had no close encounters as a result. There
are normally 10 pods of sperm whales that frequent
the waters off Dominica. I realize that there are no
guarantees with such trips as to the level of encounters. Nevertheless,
for the expense [2017 price is
$8200 for seven days], it was quite disappointing." www.biganimals.com
Often, liveaboard diving is the only way to get
big animal action. David Fox-Revett (Holland
Landing, ON) was luckier diving from Mike Ball's MV Spoilsport on Australia's Great Barrier Reef in June. He wrote, "A major objective of the trip was
snorkeling with Dwarf Minke whales. The diving
was good, but I wouldn't say great. Many of the
reefs have been damaged by two recent cyclones
that have broken up the coral. However, the coral
does appear to be regenerating. The Minke whales did appear several times, as advertised. We had two
long sessions with them -- one two hours and one
four hours -- with four to six whales each session." www.mikeball.com
Sean Bruner (Tucson, AZ), aboard the MV
Solmar V out to Mexico's Islas Revillagigedo in June, said "The manta action was fantastic, with up to five
mantas at a time, and they came in close, cruising
right up next to me. I was shooting black and white
with my old film camera with Subal housing and
got some fantastic shots. The white tips (sharks)
were mostly in the caves along the ledge, but it was
impressive to see so many, maybe a dozen piled on
top of one another." www.solmarv.com
Mel McCombie (New Haven, CT) traveled on
board the MV Galapagos Sky (formerly Sky Dancer) in the Galapagos in May and offers helpful tips: "The diving mostly rocked, although the memory
of Darwin, Wolf, Isabela, and Fernandina tends to
displace the few dives that were a little quiet. Don't
consider going unless you feel really comfortable
with your buoyancy in rough conditions; you will
enjoy yourself even in down currents, cross currents,
etc., if buoyancy is comfortable."
"Wear good gloves, because you will need to
grab onto barnacle-clad rocks; bring a reef hook. A
7mm plus hooded vest plus warm booties will save
your bacon. Divers on this trip wearing 3mm froze.
The water temps ranged from 64°F (17°C) to 75°F
(24°C). Bring a strong portable torch so you can
sniff around, not just on the one night dive, but
also during often-occluded and turbid day dives. Pack some warm shirts or jackets, plus something
lightweight with long sleeves to protect you on the
daytime expeditions, since the sun is very powerful." www.galapagossky.com
Feedback from other subscribers can make such
a difference to your trip planning, helping you
manage expectations and avoid problems. Your
feedback is just as important to them, as well. So
let us hear from you. Please send us a report on
any trips you've made in the last six months by filling
out our online form. You can follow the link
"File a Report" on the left side of our homepage at www.undercurrent.org, or after logging in, follow
the "Reader Report" link in the top navigation bar. goo.gl/ktcju8
Happy dive trips!
PS: Nice Gesture: Subscriber Lynda Durfee told
us that earlier this month she received an unexpected
$250 voucher from Larry Speaker of the
Aggressor Fleet to compensate for poor air on her
Belize Aggressor voyage. "My cabin didn't have any
problem (except AC first night), but others complained
of fuel a smell in their cabins, apparently
due to a spill in the bilge. I'm reporting this because
I've seen reports on other Aggressor Fleet boats with
more serious problems and poor response from the
fleet office. This voucher is good on any future reservation,
including discounted weeks. Now: where
to go next!"