The standard advice to shore divers about escaping a rip
current, sometimes wrongly called an undertow, has been
doled out for decades: Swim parallel to the shore. Yet rips
remain a real danger. In the U.S. alone they contribute to 100
drownings a year, and there’s no end to the anxiety a diver
faces if caught in one.
Oceanographers have little first-hand experience with rip
currents, so a research team led by Tim Stanton and Jamie
MacMahan spent a month on the beach studying rips. They
even swam directly into the rip, then relaxed and waited to
see where they would end up. Conventional wisdom was
that a rip was like a straight-sided river gushing out to sea
for hundreds of feet, eventually petering out in a floret of
small eddies called the rip head. But the researchers found
that rip currents can drag objects nearly a half of a mile from
shore at speeds of up to 500 feet per minute -- fast enough
to overpower the strongest of swimmers. They are especially
common on sandy beaches, where waves approach at right
angles, and sheltered beaches because the headlands diffract
arriving waves in just the right way.
The team released GPS-equipped drifters into the waves.
They bobbed close to shore for a few minutes, then, one by
one, slipped into the rip current. Thirty seconds later, they
were 300 feet from shore. Shortly before the surf zone gave
way to open water, the drifters turned sharply to the left and
then doubled back on themselves. Caught in a rip that looks
less like a river than a whirlpool, a swimmer who heads parallel
to shore won’t necessarily get out of the current. Rips can
pulse from sluggish to fierce in the blink of an eye.
The best way to escape a rip may be to rely on the eddies
to sweep you back into shallow water. To demonstrate,
MacMahan floated into the rip. After heading out nearly to
the breakers, he swept southward, parallel to the beach. Not
long afterwards, he was back in the shallows. He had been in
the rip for four minutes. Had MacMahan battled the current,
he might have stayed in place for a minute or two before the
rip exhausted him. Then he would have been in real danger,
as breaking waves made it hard to catch his breath without
choking. Instead, the current carried him safely back home.
It won’t always work, but remember it the next time you
feel the pull of the ocean. It might just save your life.
A version of this article appeared in the magazine New Scientist.
Rip currents were once seen as simple torrents of water surging through
the surf zone into open water (top image). That model is now being
challenged by real measurements (bottom image).